![]() ![]() When I changed my belt on my own SOHC at 98,000 miles the thing hadn't even barely moved out a bit. They are expensive for some odd reason being just a little hydraulic cylinder. The hydraulic ones honestly just comes down to the value of the vehicle to you. Mechanical ones always replace, they aren't that expensive, like $35 dollars. Due to these same issues kits were used to change hydraulics to mechanical and mechanical to hydraulic. #3 cause: The tensioner gives up and lets the belt have to much slack which wears on the teeth on the belt as well as gives it a chance to jump teeth.Ĭhrysler went back and forth on the tensioners due to basically supply issues. #2 cause: The tensioner pulley bearing gives up and either seizes or wobbles doing the same as above. Always, always, always, always replace the water pump when replacing the timing belt. Honestly on Neons the water pump has a shorter service life then the timing belt itself. #1 cause: The water pump either gives up and seizes or gets enough rock or walk in the shaft to cause the belt to get twisted back and forth and/or pushed up against the inside of the timing belt cover. What usually happens when people pop belts is three things. Every timing belt I've taken off a neon even past the 105k mile service interval the belt looked hardly worn at all. My personal opinion on the Gatorbacks is they are just overkill. I use the Gates one from Rockauto myself and have never had a problem. Just ask him to stick it down the inspection opening on your car and he can easily tell you if it has a mechanical or hydraulic tensioner before ordering the component kit. I hope my questions aren't too daft and thank you in advance for your answer :)Īny mechanic that is employed by or owns a reputable shop has a bore scope. And also, I don't want my car to occupy my mechanic's garage for too long, as the shipping to Europe takes a few days.Īnother question: how do you tell when the timing belt needs changing? I bought my car used and I don't suppose I can trust the number on the odometer, it says 55k miles. ![]() will the pulley from the latter kit (.B) fit both mechanical or hydraulic tensioner? Or is it better to buy the former kit, with the bracket, and to trust the catalogue entry rather than a person from rockauto? I am not looking to save $40, I just want to buy the right thing. So my question is: are the pulleys the same, i.e. Both kits are said to fit 00-02 Chrysler Neons. , when asked about the fitting, told me that the kits will fit my engine as long as it has a mechanical tensioner, which seems to be in contrast to the catalogue entry. The former one has a mechanical bracket with the tensioner pulley, the description says "Mechanical Replacement for OEM Hydraulic or Mechanical Tensioner" the latter one only comes with a pulley. I am pretty sure I will get a Goodyear Gatorback set with a water pump, either GTKWP245A or GTKWP245B. ![]() Then I read here that MY2001 only used hydraulic tensioners. I have been told that MY2001 SOHC engines can have both mechanical or hydraulic belt tensioner and that the only way to find out is to take it apart and see. What I want to ask about is what is the deal with the hydraulic/mechanical tensioners? ![]() Well, to be precise, I will have a mechanic do it for me. I am about to do a timing belt job on my 01 Chrysler Neon LE (2.0L SOHC, vin C - at least I believe, C is the 8th digit, manufactured in the U.S. ![]()
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